Clos de Tart 1998 75cl

Brilliant Pinot. A firm Burgundy that offers muchc haracter and a real sense of terroir-driven fruit. Structured and rigorous, with toasted, tarlike smoke and plenty of blackberry and red berry character. Elegant, with a crisp, clean, pure, fruity finish. Best from 2003 through 2010. 1,500 cases made

Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 1998 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has a far more mature nose than the 1999; it is a little smudged and earthy, more rustic than I was expecting. The palate foundation is dry with obdurate tannins and plenty of mushroom notes (morels), with a masculine and tertiary finish. I suspect that there might be better bottles than this, but if I had any of my own, I would be inclined to drink them in the next three or four years. Tasted September 2015.